K-Beauty’s Best-Kept Secret? “Licorice Root Extract” in Skincare

Hello! Welcome to the Active Bioworks blog family. Today, we’re diving into an ingredient that has been used in traditional medicine for thousands of years and is now a star in modern skincare: Licorice Root Extract.

With the rise of K-Beauty (Korean Beauty) trends, this natural wonder has gained widespread popularity.

What Is Licorice Root (Glycyrrhiza Glabra)?

Licorice root, scientifically known as Glycyrrhiza Glabra, is a perennial plant native to the Mediterranean, Middle East, and Asia. Its name derives from the Greek words “glykys” (sweet) and “rhiza” (root). Historically, it has been used in ancient Egyptian, Chinese, and Ayurvedic medicine to treat digestive issues, respiratory ailments, and skin conditions. [1]

Key Active Compounds:

• Glabridin: A potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent.

• Liquiritin: Inhibits melanin synthesis, helping to brighten skin and reduce hyperpigmentation.

• Glycyrrhizin: Offers antibacterial and antiviral properties.

Licorice contains a large number of natural bioactive compounds. Fatoki et al [2] reported that sugars (5-15% glucose, mannitol and sucrose), starch (25-30%), glycyrrhizin (10-16%), amines (1-2% asparagine, betaine and choline) and sterols (stigmasterol and β-sitosterol) constitute the water-soluble fraction.

4 Major Benefits of Licorice Root Extract in Skincare

1. Supports Skin Brightening & Hyperpigmentation Reduction
   Licorice root is widely recognized for its potential to help lighten skin tone and reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Its key compound, glabridin, is believed to support the inhibition of tyrosinase—an enzyme involved in melanin production. Studies, including one published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2010),

   Additionally, some research indicates that licorice extract could offer comparable benefits to hydroquinone—a common depigmenting agent—with a lower risk of side effects (Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology & Venereology, 2011).

2. Helps Soothe Inflammation and Redness
   Glabridin is known for its calming properties, which may help reduce redness and irritation in sensitive, acne-prone, or rosacea-affected skin. Research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) highlights its potential to support skin comfort during flare-ups.

3. Combat Free Radical Damage
   Rich in antioxidants, licorice root extract helps protect the skin from oxidative stress, which is linked to premature aging.

4. Supports Hydration and Skin Barrier Health
   By promoting hyaluronic acid synthesis, licorice root may aid in maintaining skin moisture and strengthening the natural barrier, particularly for dry or compromised skin.

Cerulli, A. et al. [3]

K-Beauty’s Obsession with Licorice Root Extract

Korean beauty philosophy emphasizes multi-step routines and natural, gentle ingredients. Licorice root has become a cornerstone of this trend:

• Glass Skin Goals: Found in toners, essences, and serums, it helps achieve the coveted “glass skin” look—luminous, even-toned, and flawless.

• Popular K-Beauty Products:

  • COSRX Ultimate Nourishing Rice Overnight Spa Mask

  • Innisfree Brightening Pore Serum

• Sensitive Skin Savior: Korean brands prioritize licorice root in “clean” formulations for its non-irritating, calming effects.

How to Incorporate Licorice Root into Your Skincare Line?

• Toners/Essences: Use daily to target uneven skin tone.

• Night Serums: Let glabridin work overnight to repair and brighten.

• Moisturizers: Ideal for dry or compromised skin barriers.

The Power Duo of K-Beauty: Centella & Licorice Root

Centella Asiatica Extract and Licorice Root Extract have become essential ingredients in K-Beauty formulations. Known for their soothing, brightening, and anti-inflammatory properties, these two actives work synergistically to calm irritated skin, reduce redness, and even out skin tone.

We reviewed Cicadin Anti-Blemish Serum, a Korean skincare product with Centella Asiatica and Licorice Root Extract - a combination that provides skin-soothing and brightening benefits (based on the brand's stated ingredients, not advertising).

Love K-Beauty? Don’t Miss Our Trending Trio!

✨CalmActive CICA Colloidal !
A powerhouse for sensitive, reactive skin with:

Centella Asiatica (CICA): Supports skin barrier repair and helps reduce redness.

Lactobacillus Lysate: Contributes to a balanced skin microbiome.

Madecassoside + Beta-Glucan: Soothes discomfort & enhances the skin’s ability to retain moisture.

Final Thoughts: Nature’s Gift to Glowing Skin

Licorice root extract bridges ancient and modern science, offering proven benefits for brightening, soothing, and protecting the skin. Its popularity in K-Beauty highlights how adaptable and successful it is. Whether battling dark spots or seeking a radiant complexion, this botanical powerhouse deserves a spot in your products.

At Active Bioworks, we invite you to embrace the magic of licorice root.

Stay tuned for more skincare insights!

References:

1. Grieve, M. (1931). A Modern Herbal. Dover Publications..

2. Fatoki, T.H.; Ajiboye, B.O.; Aremu, A.O. In Silico Evaluation of the Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, and Dermatocosmetic Activities of Phytoconstituents in Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.). Cosmetics 2023, 10, 69. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030069.

3. Cerulli, A.; Masullo, M.; Montoro, P.; Piacente, S. Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and Their Constituents as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients. Cosmetics 2022, 9, 7. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9010007

4. Yokota, T. et al. (2010). Journal of Dermatological Science.

5. Chen, S. et al. (2018). International Journal of Cosmetic Science.

6. Fu, B. et al. (2022). Antioxidants and Redox Signaling.

7. Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice, 2nd Edition (pp. 281, 318-319). McGraw-Hill.

8. Herman, A. et al. (2011). Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology & Venereology, 25(10).

9. Draelos, Z.D. (2010). Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 9(3).

10. Wahab, Shadma & Annadurai, Sivakumar & Saquib, Shahabe & Das, Gotam & Ahmad, Wasim & Ahmad, Md Faruque & Kandasamy, Geetha & Vasudevan, Rajalakshimi & Ali, Md & Amir, Mohd. (2021). Glycyrrhiza glabra (Licorice): A Comprehensive Review on Its Phytochemistry, Biological Activities, Clinical Evidence and Toxicology. Plants. 10. 2751. 10.3390/plants10122751.

11. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology & Venereology, Volume 25 (10) - Oct 1, 2011, Natural options for the management of hyperpigmentation.

12. Cronin H, Draelos ZD. Top 10 botanical ingredients in 2010 anti-aging creams. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2010 Sep;9(3):218-25. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2010.00516.x. PMID: 20883295.